Everything About Pearls
The only gemstone created by a living creature. Pearls have captivated humanity for thousands of years — worn by pharaohs, coveted by empresses, and treasured across every culture on earth.
How a Pearl Is Born
A pearl begins as an accident. When an irritant — a grain of sand, a parasite, a fragment of shell — enters the body of a mollusc, the creature responds by coating it with layer after layer of nacre, a crystalline substance also known as mother-of-pearl.
Over months or years, these layers build up, each one adding the characteristic luminous glow that makes pearls unlike any other gemstone. Natural pearls form entirely by chance. Cultured pearls are created by pearl farmers who introduce an irritant into the mollusc — the nacre that forms is biologically identical.
Types of Pearls
The classic cultured pearl. Akoya pearls are prized for their near-perfect round shape and high mirror-like lustre — the traditional choice for pearl strands and stud earrings.
The largest and most valuable cultured pearls. Grown in the Pinctada maxima oyster, they develop a thick nacre and a satiny lustre unlike any other variety.
The only naturally dark-coloured pearls in the world. They display extraordinary overtones — peacock green, cherry, aubergine — that shift with the light.
The most widely available cultured pearls. Grown in mussels in lakes and rivers, they come in the widest range of shapes and offer excellent value.
How Pearl Quality Is Graded
Unlike diamonds, pearls have no universal grading system. Quality is assessed across five key factors — together they determine a pearl's beauty and value.
The depth and sharpness of reflections on the pearl's surface. A high-lustre pearl reflects images clearly like a mirror — the most important quality factor by far.
Should be smooth and blemish-free. Minor spots are acceptable in lower grades. A clean surface also indicates thick nacre, meaning the pearl will last longer.
Round is the most valued, though perfectly round pearls are rare. Baroque and drop shapes are prized for their character — especially in modern designs.
Measured by diameter in millimetres. Prices increase sharply above 8–9mm because larger molluscs and more time are required to produce them.
Three components: body colour, overtone (a secondary translucent colour), and orient (iridescent shimmer). Rose overtones on white pearls are highly desirable.
Thick nacre means a more beautiful, longer-lasting pearl. Thin nacre can look dull and may peel over time — always ask about nacre thickness.
Pearl Colours
Pearls come in a broader range of natural colours than any other organic gemstone. The colour depends on the species of mollusc, the water conditions, and the pearl's unique formation.
Black Tahitian and golden South Sea pearls are the rarest — occurring entirely naturally with no treatment. White Akoya pearls with a rose overtone are the classic choice for necklaces and earrings.
Natural vs Cultured Pearls
Formed entirely without human intervention. Extraordinarily rare — most were harvested centuries ago and exist only in antique collections. A single natural pearl strand can be worth millions at auction.
Grown with the assistance of pearl farmers who introduce an irritant into the mollusc. The nacre that forms is biologically identical to a natural pearl — only the origin of the irritant differs. All fine pearl jewelry today uses cultured pearls.
Caring for Your Pearls
Pearls are organic and relatively soft. With the right habits they will last for generations.